Saturday, January 17, 2015

Idyllic nature

Clear the mind of what one imagines God’s own country to be before beginning a tour of Wyanad, advises rakesh kumar

 

It was an exhaustive five hours journey by flight to Calicut airport from Delhi and from there it took two hours more to reach Vythiri in Wayanad district of Kerala. But our long journey seemed to pay off the moment we prepared to land. From the plane itself I could see a sea of coconut palms ~ it appeared that God himself had arranged them to make them look more beautiful. Of course, the sight was soothing for people like us, who are more exposed to urban life. It was evening when we reached Vythiri, a small hill station at an altitude of 2,000 metres, braving thick forests and hills.
 For all those, who know Kerala only for its rice boats, backwater cruises, sandy beaches, colonial churches or thatch-roofed fishing villages, be informed that this part of Kerala doesn’t offer any of these. Wayanad has tea gardens and coffee plantations covering the hill-sides, the largest tribal population with a distinctive culture, an 800-year-old Jain community ~ the numerous Jain temple ruins as evidence ~ and last but not least, soft green paddy fields (Wayanad means land of paddy) covering the foothills. The region also houses a wildlife sanctuary, forest range, waterfalls, lake, dam, rocks and caves, is a paradise for trekking and, not to forget, tasty cuisine. What else does a visitor need?

Back to nature


 We stayed in the Vythiri Village Resort, sprawled across 20 acres, amid mesmerising mist-clad hills of Wayanad. Sited in a picturesque corner of Wayanad, Vythiri Village is poised to be a five-star resort with 200 guest rooms and a high-tech conference hall spacious enough to accommodate 2,000 delegates, when fully commissioned. The resort has streams, a waterfall, nature walks and a zipline, swimming pool, an excellent Ayurvedic spa, and a huge convention centre housing a state-of-the-art auditorium with a capacity of 1,500. The food is outstanding and the rooms are spacious. There are 12 cottages, 36 deluxe rooms and 26 suites. Some 40 pool villas will soon be ready.
 
Wandering feet


The next morning, it was the chirping of birds that broke our sleep, compelling us to leave bed early because a lot more was to come. Our exploration of Wayanad began with the Edak­kal Caves, which was an hour’s drive from the hotel. Inside these magnificent caves were pictorial writings, believed to be from Neolithic times. Our resort manager had warned that there would be a tough, steep climb for about a kilometre, so better come in trekking mode. Edakkal Caves are not really caves, but a small rock formation that is partially covered. Although the inscriptions on the walls are very old, they are not visually interesting unless one can read them. The engravings are spread over an area of 500 sq feet on the two walls of the cave. Archae­ologists have dated these rock engraings to the Neolithic period, between 4000 BC and 1000 BC.



 Next on the list was the picturesque Kanthanpara Waterfalls, situated about 6 km from Meppadi. The crystal clear water flowing down from the top of the mountain present an exhilarating sight and an ideal picnic spot.
 The next morning, we left for Muthanga Wildlife Sanctuary, which is an ideal place for nature lovers and wildlife enthusiasts. Established in 1973, Muthanga Wildlife Sanctuary is rich in bio-diversity. One could spot elephants roaming freely here and tigers are said to be sighted occasionally. Various species of deer, monkeys and birds are also found in the Reserve, which is home to a small population of tigers, butterflies and insects. The trees and plants in the sanctuary are typical of the south Indian moist deciduous forests and west coast semi-evergreen forests. We had taken the morning safari in a semi-open jeep and were lucky to see deer, peacocks, wild boar, monkeys and elephant. The safari lasted for an hour and covered a total distance of 21 kms.
The trip ended by visiting Banasura Dam, the largest earthen dam in India. The view from the dam is beautiful. There is nothing much to the dam itself, but it hosts activities like motor biking and other sports.



 
Quick facts

How to reach:
There are daily flights (vie Mumbai) and train to Kozhikode from major cities.


Where to stay:
Vythiri Village Resort (+91-4936-256716, vythirivillage.com)

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Friday, January 2, 2015

Four points in Mussoorie

Visiting Mussoorie after 10 years, rakesh kumar explores nooks and corners of the hill station that are little visited


I was just a school kid the last time I was in Mussoorie. I distinctly remember running past shops and tucking in at the food joints on the Mall Road, my dip in Kempty Falls and being dragged to temples in the area. So, when I visited the "Queens of Hills" last month, there was a familiar feel to the place. All my way from Delhi to Dehradun by train and from there to Mussoorie by road, I kept thinking what new was left for me to explore.

Fortunately, help was waiting at my hotel, Jaypee Residency Manor. Apart from the warm hospitality, the most impressive part of the hotel was its 360 degree breathtaking view of the mighty Himalaya and Dehradun at the foothills. Spread over nine acres of lush green area, perched on a hilltop, the hotel offered exotic stays, food flavours and much more within serene surroundings. The general manager of hotel suggested four must-visit places in Musoorie, all of which I had missed on my last visit. Thus began my second sojourn at the hill station.

 

Lovely Omelette Centre 

 

What could be a better way to kickstart a trip than with food? Looking for something hot as a respite from that November chill, we landed up at Lovely Omellete Centre. Situated on the Mall Road, the eatery is just a tiny shop, which can easily be overlooked but for the crowd patiently waiting outside. As we reached the shop, we overheard a tourist saying a trip to Mussoorie was not complete without tasting omelette from Lovely Omelette. Seriously!

 Luckily, our turn came just half an hour later. We ordered cheese omelette and I have to candidly admit that it was the best I have ever had ~ certainly worth every minuted we waited. The owner, Khursheed, informed that his family had started the business in 1918. At first, his father only sold eggs, but 40 years ago, then they decided to switch to running an omelette kiosk. He proudly said there was hardly any celebrity, who had visited Mussoorie but given his omelettes a miss. His customers included Rajeev Gandhi, Amitabh Bacchan and many others, whose photographs adorn the shop.

 

Iconic bookstore

Strolling a little ahead on the Mall Road, we entered Cambridge Book Depot.  This bookstore is popular for fans of author Ruskin Bond. The owner of the shop told us that for the past 14 years Ruskin Bond is at the bookstore every Saturday if he is in town and the bonding session with him has been a huge hit. For a bookworm the bookshop has become a must-visit.

 

Dhanaulti visit

The next day we decided to venture out of the city. Dhanualti thus found a place in our itinerary. From Mussoorie, it took us around one-and-a-half hour to reach Dhaunlti. Perched at an astonishing elevation Dhanaulti is still untouched by the maddening  rush of the hill stations and maintains a quite a charm all around it.

Driving some eight km further, we reached Surkanda Devi Temple at an altitude of 9,976 ft. The temple is said to mark the spot where the head of Sati, Shiva's wife, fell after she died at her father's yagna. At first sight, the temple seemed not too far away, but our driver warned us that looks were deceptive in the mountains and the place was actually not as close as it looked. On his suggestion many of our colleagues chose to take a pony. Three of us braved the steep climb. Though the picturesque view of the valley and the mountains  compensated our efforts, the going was tough. The path is not exactly well- maintained with difficult patches coming up frequently. The welcome chime of temple bells announced our destination and we found ourselved sweating in the chilly weather. Once on the hill-top, the beauty of the place took our breath away. A vantage point for photography, clouds seems to roam around the temple and I could see snow-capped mountains in the distance.

 Lal Tibba 

 

Our trip ended at Lal Tibba, the highest peak in Mussoorie. From here one can see the snow clad peaks of the Himalaya, especially Kailash, Gangotri and Yamnotri. There are two cafes at Lal Tibba that offer binoculars to look around. The peak has some interesting history too. During British era, Lal Tibba was the place from where the British would fire shots to indicate time. All too soon it was time to return to the humdrum of Delhi and a tired but satiated lot packed up with a lot of memories.

 

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